How to best and quickest improve individual parts. What take care about and what is better to avoid. Haw do I train myself and how does a specific week in training period or performance period look like.
1. Mainly climb- climb- climb, it is naturally the activity, which you want to improve. Do not lose time by useless things.
2. Train four times a week in minimum; otherwise you will meet no results.
3. Do not prefer only some of climbing training meanings e.g. rock, wall, bouldering and wall with rope, they all in suitable combination will prepare you in best way on the most various situation, in maximal level.
4. The priority things for self consciousness
– strength of fingers is the ground, what the fingers carry, the body climbs
- technique, do not forget in its training – every move is not able to be done with power.
- the body power joints the strength of fingers and technique of legs and they create the harmony, and even the whole climbing style which climber displays during the performance.
- the head – in the most cases it is the largest brake for all, either in form of fear, technique or tactic – a small advice: not think, just climb.
5. When I train or climb on rocks, always with full intensity with all élan and determination on 100 %.
6. Always determine your aim. It is necessary, without aim is no motivation and neither result.
7. You must love climbing too much, you will dream about it in night.

Briefly how to work on the individual parts.
Now something to the training: I prefer training of power on boulder wall by bouldering. The most effective boulders are 10 – 15 moves long. The wall is about 40 % overhanged. It is not necessary to be pumped in 10 minutes, but to endure two hours. The fatigue will come itself. In later time it is useful to even harder boulders for maximal power activation.
For endurance training I recommend to time climbing on the wall, 5-10 minutes to circle with consequent 10 minutes rest, to repeat it six to ten times. On the rocks climbing of 30 meters long routes, everybody on his/her level. There are suitable even 7a or 7b, I prefer the difficulty slightly bellow my standard of onsights.
The power endurance respective the climbing on maximum of about 30 moves. The training on the wall is the best, it is good to find circuits on boulder wall for 20-40 moves 10 times on training. Climbing of new routes is better, you will reach better knowledge of moves. The other meanings are the routes with rope or the most useful is the to trying the routes on the level of your RP maximum.
The technique is best trained of course on the rock, but even on the gym wall you can find out boulders or routes which can improve your technique. I work intensively on creating of new boulder to practice some of the basic climbing knowledge, e.g. tips heels. What to worry, it is easy answer? Injury and therefore pauses in climbing, because only the one who trains a lot, but also long term without pausing longer then one week can reach something. I personally used to train several months without only one day of rest, it is the key.
And what about my week, I try to prepare next time and I prepare yours for you.